Garden Furnitureconcrete Pedestals

Sun dials, statuettes, and vases mounted on ornamental pedestals add greatly to the pietur-esqueness of the modern garden. These pedes-

Concrete Pedestal
Fig. 97 - Concrete Pedestal—F.xecnted bv the Autho*

tals are made in numerous designs and of various materials, such as stone, marble, and concrete

The accompanying half-tone illustration, Fig. 93, shows a pedestal made of white Portland cement

It is of simple design, and one which lends itself nicely to the material, inasmuch as the forms in

' Jteeitvds

  1. 95—Dfta!'. of Ba«e Mold which to cast it are easily made. Fig. 94 :s an outline sketch of the pedestal, in which are given its general dimensions, and Figs. 95. 97. 98, 100,
  2. 95—Dfta!'. of Ba«e Mold which to cast it are easily made. Fig. 94 :s an outline sketch of the pedestal, in which are given its general dimensions, and Figs. 95. 97. 98, 100,

and 102 show details of the molds in which it is east. Fig. 96 shows the various parts of the mold before assembling. Fig. 99 shows the shaft mold

Fig. 97—Detail of Cap Mold

assembled in position ready to pour, and Fig. ior shows the three finished pieces of the pedestal before setting them up.

The molds should all be made of i-;nch lumber, and the dimensions given should be followed closely. The base mold shown in Fig. 95 consists of nothing more or less than a square box with

Fig. 98—Detail of Main Part of Shaft Mold

sides 5 inches high. In the center of the bottom of this box is placed a tapered core, so as to produce a hole in the cast to correspond in size to the outside dimensions of the plug on the bottom of the shaft of the pedestal, as shown in Fig. 101. The mold for the top or cap of the pedestal is

%ig. 99—Shaft Mold A^semb'ed and in Positior Ready to Pour

shown in Fig. 97. This like the base mold is merely a square box. It is 4 inches deep, and a ^4-inch tapered plug is placed in the center of its bottom as shown, in order to produce a J^-inch hole in the bottom of the cap in which to insert the 3^-inch reinforcing rod, which passes through the entire length of the shaft, as shown in the assembled drawing, Fig. 102. Strips of 2-inch quarter-round stock molding initered at the corners, as shown, are placed in the bottom of this iti

i-h S't >

1' t :

x_ A.

Fig. 100—Details of Parts ' B" and " C " of Shaft Mold mold in order to give the desired outline to the lower portion of the cap. The main shaft mold is made in three pieces, as shown in Fig. 102. Fig. 98 shows the details of the sides of the main part of the shaft mold. The recessed panels shown in the sides of the pedestal in Fig. 93 can either be

cast in or it can he tooled out, after the pedestal

mer and chiscl. If it is desired to cast it in, rather than to tool it out, a panel or negative mold, as shown at C, Fig. 9b, should be attached to the inner side of each side of the shaft mold as shown. The edges of this negative mold for the panel should be beveled off as indicated in the sectional drawing, so as to allow it to be released readily from the cast when removing the forms. Details of parts B and C of the shaft mold are shown in Fig. 100. Part B is a bottomless box ja inches square on the inside, with sides 6 inches high, and in it are secured, on all four sides, and mitered at the corners as shown, pieces of 2-inch quarter-round stock molding. These are securely fastened to the sides 1 inch from the top. Part C of the mold is made of four pieces of i-inch board as shown, on which is built up the cone which forms the lug on the bottom of the shaft. Part A of the mold at its top should have secured to it, on all four sides, pieces of 2-inch by i-inch tapered strips, as shown by the shaded portion at d in Fig. 102. The outside dimensions of these strips should be such that the inner portion of part B fits over them snugly.

The bottom of part A of the mold should have a 9/t6-ineh hole y2 inch deep bored in its center in which to place the J4-inch steel reinforcing rod, as shown. After having completed the v arious parts of the mold as described above, sandpaper the inner surfaces of them and give them two coats of shellac; let this dry thoroughly, and then oil the inside surface well with a fairly thin oil. Now assemble the shaft mold, letting section A stand

Fig. lOT—Showing Pedfital wHh Relitf Design— Executed by the Rowley Studios on end, as shown Fig. 102. Place section H in position as shown, care being taken to let the quarter-round molding rest snugly down on the pieces d of section A. Then place the steel rod in position, and commence to deposit the concrete mixture. If a white shaft is desired, use one part of white Portland cement and two parts of white marble screenings ranging in size from dust up to inch. Mix these together dry, and then add enough water to make a fairly thick paste. Fill the mold tlush with the top of part B. tapping the sides and jarring part A of the mold occasionally to settle the concrete mixture as it is being deposited. When the concrete is flush with the top of section B, place section C in position, and proceed to fill it flush with the top. Allow the concrete to set or harden in the molds for at least twenty-four hours before attempting to remove the molds. In securing the molds together use as few nails as possible, and i.' removing the mold from the cast, great care must be taken in loosening them, so as not to injure the casts. In removing the shaft mold, take off part C first, then part B, and Anally section A. The base and cap molds should be tilled with the same mixture as above, and should also be allowed to set for at least twenty-four hours before removing the forms. It would be well to insert in the base, when casting, four pieces of yi-'mch round or square steel reinforcing bars placed as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 95. These will add greatly to its strength, and will prevent it from cracking in case the foundation, upon which the pedestal is placed, is not perfectly true and level.

Fig. lot -Concrete Sun Dill Pedenal— Executed by J- C. Kiarn
Fig. 1D5—Sun Dial Pe'lestal—B/ J. C. Kraus

If by any chance the casts shouid be injured, in remm ing them from the molds, they should be well wet down with w ater and pointed up with a mortar made of 1 part white Portland cement and 1 part of marble dust mixed with enough water to produce a fairly thick paste.

After having pointed up the various parts of the pedestal they should be allowed to stand for a short time, and then all of the pieces should be well soaked with water occasionally every day for at least ten days. This wetting down is known as the curing process, and it should be well attended to, as the hardness and durability of the product produced depend largely upon the care taken :n properly curing the casts.

After the pieces have become thoroughly hardened or cured they can be assembled or set up in position, as shown in Figs. 93 and 94. The surfaces of the parts which are to be joined together shouid be sprinkled with water, and covered with a thin layer of cement mortar composed of x part of white Portland cement and 1 part of marble dust. They should be placed on each other, and worked around with a twisting motion until bedded in place. The surplus cement which is forced out at the joints should then be smoothed off. and the pieces allowed to set, without being disturbed, for from one to two days, 'n which time they will be firmly secured ;n place.

By using the mixture of white Portland cement and marble chips or screenings, as stated ahove,

Fig. 106—Concrete Sun Dial or Vase Pedestal—Executed by J. C. Kraus

che effect produced will resemble that of white marble. If one prefers the gray color of ordinary Portland cement, the mixture used should

Fig. 107—Pedestal and Vase—Bv J. C. Krau

then be composed of 1 part Portland cement to 2 parts of good clean sand and 2 parts of fap rock screenings or pebbles not to exceedrjfinch in size. If a sun dial is to be placed on the pedestal, it need not be cemented in place. They are

Fig. ins—Pedestal and Vase— Bv J. C. Kraus

usually made of brass or bronze, and their weight is sufficient to hold thtm down. When placing a sun dial, always see that its vane points to the north and that the pedestal is placed in the full rays of the sun. It would also be well to prepare a good solid foundation for the pedestal to rest

Fig. 109—Vases and Pedestals of Bold Design Lend Themselves Nirely to Concrete—Executed hv F.merson & Nbrris Co.

on, for it this is not done it is apt to settle as the ground becomes soft in the spring time. In fact, all heavy garden furniture should be provided

Fig. 110—Vase and Pedestal—Executed by Emerson & Norris Co.

with good solid foundations. These foundations should he from 2 to 3 feet deep, and in size should correspond to the size of the base of the piece which is to rest upon them. To prepare a foundation of this kind, all that is necessary is to dig a hole of the desired size and depth and to till it with a mixture of 1 part Portland cement, 3 parts of sand, and 5 parts of broken stone or gravel Add enough water to this to make it of the consistency of a thick pasty mass. Tamp it down well and level it off and allow it to set or harden for twenty-four hours, in which time the piece can be placed in pos'tion on it. In Fig. 103 is shown a pedestal of the same general lines as that shown in Fig. 93, the design, however, being somewhat elaborated. To produce a pedestal of this kind requires the incorporation of a plaster mold which is of a more complicated nature than the mold described above. Numerous other designs of pedestals are shown herewith, so as to give to the reader some idea of the wide possibilities in design which can be obtained with concrete.

Was this article helpful?

0 0

Responses

  • andwise
    How to make molds for concrete pedestals?
    9 years ago

Post a comment